I did not get distracted this AM as I headed out for Chez Moeder Lambic ... but I did have a few other objectives in mind before getting there.
While at the Cantillon Brewery and Museum, I picked up a little book titled, 'Around Brussels in 80 Beers' ... it basically highlights a bar, pub, retailer ... gives a description of the establishment ... quite honestly, I might add, because they are quick to point out any failings ... and then they recommend a beer to drink or buy there and go into to detailed description of the beer producer and the beer itself ... it's a very handy reference in a country where the production of beer may be more serious than that of wine in France ... yes, I know ... heresy.
While Chez Moeder Lambic was the prime goal ... I had three other goals in mind ... Musee Horta, Brasserie de l'Union and Brasserie Verschueren.
In the late 19th century, Brussels was a city that was experiencing phenomenal growth ... to feed the market for stylish mansions, Architect Victor Horta created a new style that would later be given the name 'Art Nouveau' .... 'full of sensuous curves and artistic surprises, elaborated with wrought iron, stained glass, mosaics, murals and finely crafted woodwork ....' the Musee Horta is his former home and crucible for ideas ... more on the Musee in a minute.
Close to the Musee Horta are the two bars previously mentioned ... and I only discovered them because of the book.
I first stopped at the l'Union ... a small nondescript bar named after the former soccer club who were the best Europe had to offer prior to WWII ... to quote ... 'there are certain places outside the city centre that are more authentically Bruxellois then most anything you will find within it ... one such is the Union'.
There were 50 beer on the menu ... 4 on tap ... I ordered a Belgoo Magus ... it's a full bodied beer and has a spicy flavour ... darker than a blond ... lighter than mahogany ... very good to wash down the omelette I ordered to go with it ... 1/3 the price of any beer at Grand Place ... and the omelette was perfect.
Next I wandered down the street ... literally .. to the old church and just across the street was Verschueren. This bar was once the club house of the famous Union team ... this was an upscale locale that went in the opposite direction after the war and the fate of the Union club paralleled that of the locale.
Today it is another nondescript bar that the locals know and love .... the waiter recommended the beer I had ... very hoppy and bitter ... a beer style I love ... this was unfiltered ... even better ... I sat beside the church in the sun and just watched dogs and owners parading by .... I wish I could remember the name of the beer ... yes .. I wish ...
Now it was time for the Musee Horta ... only open from 2 to 5 ... it's a 5 storey narrow building (think Amsterdam) .. on entering you have to check all your bags. I went to the top floor and the description was right on ... murals, wrought iron, beautiful wood, a toilet by John Crapper, etc. ... very open, very bright, very spacious .. in a house that really wasn't that large. I was taking pictures when a guy came up behind me and said 'no pictures' ... I said why not ... and then he yelled ... YOU CANNOT TAKE PICTURES ... and I mean he yelled ... I had to laugh to myself ... I know another Belgian who is quite similar ... with that I just said, 'Hello ..I am visiting from Canada ...' and simply left ... with my bags of course ... so much for Art Nouveau ... here are the pictures I didn't take ...
OK ... now I was on the way to Chez Moeder Lambic .... again this is a small neighbourhood bar ... that has gained a worldwide reputation ... if you know your beer ... and I don't ... but I am learning ... it has been described as one of the world's great beer bars ... besides having over 250 beer on the menu it is the only place, besides the brewery, where you can find Cantillon Lambic hand pumped from the cask.
I did not have the Lambic this day but started with a IV Season and then followed that up with a Guldenberg ... the former a very hoppy nosed, tart ale ... again a style I love ... the latter a blonde with a very complex flavour ... I left before I couldn't ....
Regarding my search for a symbol or the symbol ... I can't say I really saw anything that tied it all together ... just that everything that I am seeing is today's folks trying to preserve the past through dedication to a craft that has all been forgotten with today's InBev and Budweiser ... something tells me that what I am looking for has something to do with this ... I know I am on the right track ... only 78 more beer to go ... :-) ...
Tomorrow it is Bruges ... where maybe the answer might be found ...
To quote from verse 1893 of the Krome Koan,
' ... the liver is evil and must be punished ... '
The G.R. Ale Hunter (aka The Night Templar)
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